Recently the winds have been light and seas flat, making for a calm anchorage with just enough breeze to keep the Kunas sailing. Having been in a larger, powered cayuco I can attest that it takes good balance and core strength just to stay in the boat. A slight turn of the head is all it takes to call the stomach muscles and white knuckles into action.

That being said, we are always amazed by the great amount of skill the Kuna's exhibit as they sit, stand and sail in their wooden ulus. With powerful strokes, they row steadily upwind in even the nastiest weather, feathering to keep a perfectly straight line.

To sail only requires some spare fabric, such as that leftover from the women's skirts, a mainsheet tied to the back of the ulu, and a strong oar to serve as a rudder. You'll see variations of a gaff or jib rig, although we are finding that outboard engines are also becoming more common.


Reach was joined the other day in the azure "Swimming Pool" anchorage by a sistership. Another Manta 40 catamaran Dutch Treat came through the San Blas and we met Cameron and Annelize on their way to Columbia. It turns out we'd met this boat and its previous owners Kevin & Amanda before in Puerto Rico, when it was named Solstice. Looking good!